Tag: Noda

I managed to get up at 5:15 am and made my train to Rikuchu-Noda, followed by bus to Kosode Ama Center. The early morning sky had this lovely peculiar layer of clouds that looked like what I imagine the cotton lining to a quilt would look like, with the sun peeking out of one side.

I was worried about today. It was clear from the bus ride that what I had assumed was an escape bus stop mid-route was actually nowhere near the course, as the Kuji Tourism Association staff member had advised me. He’d also told me that the hardest part was not the north section, but the south section past Misaki, and that I should conserve my strength and not overdo it in the first stretch.

It wasn’t anywhere near as bad as I’d worried: the bits described as “easy to get lost” were anything but. Maybe it’s the season combined with the signage and taping, but the path was crystal clear to me the entire way. There were steep and slippery bits, but nothing I couldn’t handle by swallowing my pride and sitting somewhere to scoot down if I had to. I was glad not to have done this bit yesterday right after the rain, and to not have brought along the heavy pack. I’ll have to figure out later if I actually could have used Rikichu-Noda’s station lockers (open 7 to 6 pm if I remember correctly) and taken a later bus. Anyway, I’m proud that I made the best decision for myself and did this section right.

Giving myself lots of leeway on time left me plenty of time to not only not lose my footing but not step on the never-ending hop festival that was all the little bitty to medium sized frogs hopping around. No offense to the frogs but I was mainly being careful because I saw three snakes on the trail, two of them mamushi snakes (which are poisonous) and one a darker unidentified snake which was extremely interested in getting the hell out of there before being identified. All three of the snakes, let’s be clear, wanted more than anything to get away and not be stepped on, so I did my best to drop the pace and keep an eye on the ground.

No bears, mainly because I was ringing my bear bell while treating the woods like my personal karaoke booth so as to not meet bears.

I’m really glad I went to Misaki and want to go again when the leaves have fallen and you can see the ocean better. Lots of woodpeckers and various kinds of tits.

Bento from trusty local store with beer and my last tent stay until I get back on the trail in October. There’s so much I still want to do here: see Marine Rose Park Noda Tamagawa, drink the local wine, stay at Eboshi-so. Next time.

By the way: the Tamagawa campground manager older fellow came by and wouldn’t let me pay for the last two nights since he hadn’t seen me, went to get my change for 150 yen from 200, and gave me a large handful of candy for good measure.

Today I hiked the section I’d planned for day 3, Rikuchu-Noda Station to Horinai Station. I got a later start from Rikuchu-Noda than I’d hoped because the spray sunscreen I’d just bought already ran out of juice. Rikichu-Noda area has a lot of little grocery/alcohol/what have you shops, but nobody had sunscreen so I caved and found the nearest conbini on Google Maps. After I finally got going, I enjoyed walking along the new Tofugaura Park area with its lovely mini golf course and a cool, comfortable wooden building shaped like a shell. It was there I found pictures of the area after the tsunami. The huge torii gate and the stores I’d passed had been buried in rubble. It was sad to see that Tofugaura Beach was being hidden by seawall, but the only opinion that matters is not mine but residents. I hope it’s according to their wishes.

Because of late start, I didn’t have much hope that I’d reach Eboshi-so in time for its lunchtime restaurant hours until 2, but as I walked I started to feel more and more optimistic. And besides: I was going to take a bath!!! With three exclamation points.

And I’m happy to report that I made it! To celebrate I got the fancy Sanriku sashimi bowl at 1600 yen. Usually I’d hesitate but since I’m staying at Tamagawa Campground this entire trip at 150 yen a night, and that’s if the nice fellow comes to collect the fee at all, I figure I can afford the slightly fancier lunch.

Rest of hike went well, without a hitch. I’m in the campground and have attempted to do something resembling laundry. I spent the day thinking about it and have decided that if I can get up early enough tomorrow I’m going to try Misaki Peninsula, the part I bailed on yesterday, in the hopes that it’s dried out a bit. I can’t find a suitable locker so will again hide the non food parts of my pack in the campground.

Every person I’ve talked to so far has heard of the trail. Maybe the grand opening of the whole thing and the uptick in events has spread the word. The closest station to my campground has the map on display!

As expected, it rained last night and drizzled or rained for most of today. I caught my intended train for Kuji Station but got a slightly late start anyway because I went to the Dofukan Michinoeki (Roadside Station) for today’s emergency riceballs. It opened at 9 and I was there at 8:50, so I decided to wait and then decided to go into the nostalgia museum on the 2nd floor. It was worth it! A large chunk of the collection is from one local man (also the head of the museum). He loved collecting toys and people basically looked at him funny for it, but as soon as he set up a display in a local building people started flocking to it. Thus the museum was eventually born!

My main goal for today was getting to the Kosode Ama Center to eat a delicious seafood rice bowl, so to get there on time I cut some corners on the recommended Kuji city course and cut straight across. The hike to the Ama Center was lovely: lots of unusual rocks and two waterfalls. The taller Gojonotaki Waterfall (so named because it’s over five people’s heights tall) was even attended by a silent kamoshika, aka Japanese serow. The route didn’t have a whole lot of sidewalk but there weren’t that many cars and the view was worth it.

At the Ama Center, the sea urchin rice bowls were sold out when I ordered, so I had a tasty (though not super filling) sea urchin and mamebu soup set with unlimited juice bar. I dried off and charged my phone with impunity until the 1 pm sea urchin diving demonstration. The diver had over 40 years of experience but said the waves were so big it was hard to get where she was aiming for. She dragged out a huge bag of sea urchins regardless, and I got my sea urchin fix fresh from the sea for 1000 yen.

Bus back to Kuji Station, information gathering for the attempt at Misaki Peninsula tomorrow from the extremely nice and helpful Kuji Tourism Association staff (who is giving me a lot of advice and materials), and train in about 30 minutes.

I think I won’t do Misaki Peninsula tomorrow. The tourism association staff said just for my reference that he doesn’t recommend hiking that portion alone and that it has areas that could be loose and slippery from the rain. I’m going to wait until someone can hike it with me, or at least until it’s drier.

Edit: or will I?? Augh cannot decide.

Another edit: I have decided not to go tomorrow for sure. I can’t figure out how to at least leave my bag in a locker somewhere so I don’t have to haul it on the hike. Needs more planning and drier conditions.

Campground again tonight!

Futo needed to go to a Rugby World Cup volunteer meeting in Kamaishi today, so I got a free car ride there (even driving a tiny portion myself to keep practicing after getting my license recently). Then I took the train all the way to Noda-Tamagawa Station, with an hour stop in Miyako. Miyako was holding an autumn festival so I munched on a bonus fried squid from a stall and listened to music waiting for my train.

The trains were even specially decorated for the Rugby World Cup, complete with cute wooden rugby ball and salmon shaped handles introducing the teams that will play here.

Eating dinner at Tamagawa Campground. The picture shows me outside but the mosquitoes were nibbling on me too much so I’ve taken refuge inside my tent (actually Futo’s tent, thank you Futo). The good news is I know the fastest way to the station despite the twisty roads, and the really good news is there’s a food and liquor store nearby open until 10 at night, so I’m set for bentos, cup noodles, and sunscreen if need be. The less good news is, the onsen I’d planned to bathe in nightly is not accessible on foot unless I walk 5 km along a sidewalk-less road with cars. I got a ride both ways today, but don’t want to impose on anyone tomorrow.

Eboshi-so had a very nice bath and the staff were extremely helpful. I think I’ll go ahead and stay there one night the next leg of my trip.