Planning – My Michinoku

Plan: Part of Shiogama, part of Oshika Peninsula

December 9th (Monday)
Take 7:27 to 8:15 train to Kokufutagajo (680 yen)
Walk Kokufutagajo St to Honshiogama St, 1 hour 35 min. 4.6 km.
10:55 to 11:23 train Honshiogama to Nobiru (330 yen)
Nobiru Station to Rikuzen-Akai Station, 5 hours 14.7 km. Get home by 17:03-18:33 train or 18:03 to 19:31 train (1170 yen)

Notes: If this looks like a weird schedule, it is. I just mashed some leftover distance from another day trip onto this one. This was a day trip from my house. You’d probably want to just start at Nobiru Station. One of the Miyagi Olle courses (about 10 km loop) is south of Nobiru Station, so could be worth doing that, then walk Nobiru Station to a closer station than Rikuzen-Akai.
The Miyagi Olle website or pamphlet should have good food and lodging info.
Not a lot of food on the Nobiru Station section except a baumkuchen (cake) store. There are also no bathrooms. Use Nobiru Station bathroom or maybe try to use the baumkuchen store’s bathroom. Yamoto Seaside Park (before you head north to Rikuzen-Akai Station) is a rest area facility with several floors that included a cafe serving ramen, ice cream and more. Go to second floor lounge to recharge your phone with outlets.

December 10th (Tuesday)
My station to Rikuzen-Akai Station (6:56 – 8:45 or 7:41 to 9:09, 1170 yen).
Walk Rikuzen-Akai St. to Ishinomaki St, 13.2 km, 4.5 hours.

Stay at Kame House (about 4800 yen), buy dinner somewhere. Check in between 4 and 11 pm.
Total: 5970 plus ¥ for dinner somewhere.

Notes: Since yesterday was a day trip, I started at the nearest station to where I live. 13.2 km isn’t that long but there’s a lot to do in Ishinomaki: Manga Museum, tsunami information center. The Ishinomaki Tourism Information Center is a nice spot to rest, recharge phone (this is making me sound like a phone addict but in my defense, my phone’s battery drains in a heartbeat), also coffee machine, tourism pamphlets, free wifi, and looks like part time English speaking staff?
I loved Kame House! Warm, relaxed, clean. The host has two dogs. It’s on AirBnB and there’s a non AirBnB option through her website. The house is a reasonable distance to the station. It’s on a hill, but hill=higher ground (=already safe in a tsunami) so that’s yet another point in its favor.

December 11th (Wednesday)
Take train from Ishinomaki to JR Watanoha Station (210 yen) 7:00-7:10, 8:01-8:11, 9:33-9:43
Walk to San Juan museum is (about 20 minutes 1.3 km) and then walk as far as you can, go back to Watanoha St. via bus.
For example: 14.5 km, 4 hours 50 minutes, bus stop to Momoura, last bus back to Watanoha at 16:24. (480 yen)
Train Watanoha back to Ishinomaki (210 yen) and stay at Kame House again (4800 yen).
Total: 5490 yen plus food

Note: The recommended route shown in purple on the map past San Juan museum is beautiful but the road is closed past Kodakehama around here-ish
Still so pretty…you could try to just walk part of it, and turn back as needed. Keep in mind lots of the course along Oshika Peninsula doesn’t have any sidewalks for the most part. Not a good idea when it’s dark, and try to hop off the road when you hear trucks coming just in case.
The Ayukawa line bus is your lifeline. Schedules (Japanese PDF) weekdays , weekends put the times on your map and you’re good to go, can just go home when you feel like it/it gets dark. The bus takes Suica cards. There was a map of bus stops and a bus fee page somewhere on Miyako bus’s website but the website is garbage and I can’t find it right now. Oh wait, never mind, found the bus stop map on Ishinomaki City’s website here.
The train back to Ishinomaki doesn’t run super often so go eat at Sakana Ryori Iino (delicious) near Watanoha Station if you have time to wait and it’s dinnertime.

December 12 (Thursday)
Check out of Kame house by 10 am.
Take 8:37 bus from Ishinomaki St. to your nearest bus stop (whatever let’s say 1000 yen), walk as far as you can, bus back to Sun Fun Village at 4 ish (1000), arriving at bus station at 16.37 ish.
For example: 9.9 km, 4 hours 13 minutes
Stay at Sun Fun Village, breakfast and dinner included 7300 yen . Can check in at 4 at the earliest, put 5 pm in as time.
Total: 9300 yen plus food.

Notes: No problem getting food for today because Ishinomaki Station has a good convenience store open I think at 7:00 AM. There was a lot of cold and dark between the nearest bus station and Sun Fun Village (the bus schedule had Sun Village on the schedule but as this little arrow going past it? I don’t get it. Curse you Miyako bus. The bus I was on did not indicate it was stopping there and showed the stop after, so I got off.) I liked Sun Fun Village, though. Reasonably good buffet style food, slightly confusing system of cleaning your tray at end. Unusually, you can bring in your own beer into the cafeteria. Lots of construction workers staying there.

Bonus content:
Partially puzzled through plans for walking Tashirojima Island and Ajishima Island, going to Ayukawa, and hiking from the south of Oshika Peninsula up. I didn’t do this because I couldn’t find a place to stay on Ayukawa open at the last minute. All bus time should be weekday schedule.

Day 1
Seacat to Tashirojima 9:00 am to 9:36 (~ yen)
Hike Tajiroshima, 4.5 km, 1 hour 30 minutes
Next boat to Ajishima is 13:34-13:52. (~ yen)
Walk Ajishima, 3.8 km 1 hour 16 minutes.
You’d have to take the 14:51 to 16:33 boat back to Ishinomaki, but that’s not enough time?? Totally impossible. Go to Ayukawa instead. This is better suited to go to Ayukawa, there aren’t enough boats running in the winter.
Stay at Ayukawa-so.

Day 2
Leave Ayukawa-so at 9ish.
Ayukawa Port to Nishimachi bus stop, 8.7 km, 4 hours 21 minutes. About 2 pm?
To Oharahama, 7.2 km 1 hour 30 minutes. About 3:30 pm?
Take bus back (maybe 420 yen?) to Ayukawaso (6500 yen) from whichever bus stop is closest at the 4:00 pm time slot
https://www.city.ishinomaki.lg.jp/cont/10053500/bus/05_1ayukawa_weekday190518.pdf
https://www.city.ishinomaki.lg.jp/cont/10053500/bus/rosen-ayukawa20181001.pdf
Total: 6920 yen + lunch

Day 3
Bus from Ayukawa (7:25 or 10:20 departure) to wherever it is you left off (by 7:46, 10:41 if you made it to 小網kura whatever, maybe 420 yen)
Koamikura to Momonoura, 10 km 4 hours 13 minutes. About 3 pm ish if you took later bus.
(Momonoura to 蛤浜, 3.8 km 1 hour 16 minutes if time)
Take 3 pm or 4:30 bus (310~490 yen) to Sun Fun Village (two meals 7300 yen)
https://www.sunfun-village.com/access
OR…Yui no Hana? The kind of scary price of 4860 including two meals??
Total: 7790 yen (5770) + lunch

Day 4
Either try to walk back to where you left off yesterday and then go home, or just go home (2 hours, about 1500 yen)
Total: 1500 yen and incidentals

Plan: Kesennuma to Minamisanriku

November 16th (Saturday):
Just eat food you packed today.
7:20 – 10:08 bus to Kesennuma Station (2100 yen? Pay at a 7-11 by day of. )
Take bus to Kameyama Iriguchi bus stop, 10:25 to 10:58 (? yen)
Hike whole Oshima course, 15 km 5 hours. Stay at Kyukamura for 12,200 yen (gulp). Check-in at 5.

Notes: I actually got off the bus to start at the bridge because, cmon, that’s cooler. And silly me, I’d assumed that because there was no way to make an online reservation that the campground was closed. The campground was actually still open. It’s open year round. I just needed to tell the front person at Kyukamura that I wanted to use the campground. Oh well. Good food and luxurious hotel times.

November 17th (Sunday)
Take 8:51 to 9:13 bus to Shishioiri-Karakuwa Station (cost? about a 15 minute walk from hotel or ask for ride). https://www.kesennuma.miyagi.jp/sec/s023/010/010/010/010/050/09oshima20190408.pdf
(7-11 just north of station.)
Shishiori-Karakuwa Station to Saichi Station: 9.3 km, 2 hours
Saichi Station to Oya-Kaigan Station: 8.6 km, 2 hours
=18 km, about 4 hours
(Supermarket & ministop before Oyakaigan St. Buy enough food until tomorrow lunch)
Stay at Villa Petit Roku, a couple minutes walk from Koganezawa Station. 5000 yen NO MEALS checkin at 6

Notes: Didn’t need a ride from hotel to bus stop, it was actually a 15 minute walk and no problem. I loved Villa Petit Roku so much. Stay there. Wonderful person.

November 18th (Monday)
Train from Koganezawa St to Oya-Kaigan St. 190 yen.
Oya-Kaigan Station to Rikuzenkoizumi Station
17.1 km, 5 hours 42 minutes
Stay at Heisei no Mori campground (500 yen, probably no reservation needed…) 15 minutes walk from Utatsu Station. Several conveniences stores & restaurants around.
Bath until 9 pm (300 yen)

Notes: This is really important: Heisei no Mori’s bath is closed on Mondays and Fridays every week! Be advised! The bath is also only open in the afternoon. This means that if you stay on a Monday, like I did, you have zero chance of a hot bath.
If you’re walking over from the nearest BRT station, there’s a nice shopping district on the way. If you’re on the road with too many cars and no sidewalk, just pop one road over. Heisei no Mori is on a hill. There’s a convenience store at the foot of the hill and a couple restaurants (sushi restaurant was decent!), so good access to food.

November 19th (Tuesday)
Train from Utatsu Station to Shizugawa Station, 7:23 to 7:47 (210 yen)
Shizugawa Station to Iriya (林際 bus stop) 8:10 to 8:30. (300 yen)
林際 bus stop to Kamiwarizaki Campground21.9 km, 8 hours 8 minutes (!) Start at station for 16 k & a shorter trip…
Get shopping for today/tomorrow morning done at conbinis around Shizugawa St.
Kamiwarizaki Campground, 900 yen . Need to check in before 6.
Coin showers on-site.

Note: I didn’t do this hike today because I’d caught a cold, and you don’t camp in November with a cold. Instead, I spent the day hanging out at the Sun Sun Shopping Area near Shizugawa BRT station, took a luxurious dip at Hotel Kanyo using the local bitty bus (kind of messed up Japanese PDF) , hung out at Sun Sun Shopping Area some more, and then took the bus to Sendai from Minamisanriku, 1800 yen, no reservation needed. From Shizugawa Station: 9:33, 11:03, 14:03, 16:33.

Plan: Ofunato to Kesennuma

Start at Ofunato.
Bus: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/ofunatosenndai.html

Day 1, October 21st: Bus Sendai leaving 7:20 to arrive at Sakari Station 11:08.
Grocery shop here: Maiya north of here.
Train Sakari Station to Yoshihama Station, 13:10-13:41, 710 yen.
Walk Yoshihama Station to Sanriku Station
8 km, 2 hours 40 minutes (“1/2 day”)
Night 1: Stay at Okirai Love Love House, basically on top of Sanriku Station (free)
Shopping: there’s a Lawson about 1 km/15 minutes walk north of here. 2 restaurants around too.
Shower? No.

Notes:
I actually walked from Rikuzen-Akazaki Station to Ryori Station today because I rightly figured that Day 3 was biting off more than I could chew.
Okirai Love Love House is actually named Bar House..or something? It is free and for hikers. Call the phone number on the door of the house to contact the owner of the house who lives next door as a courtesy, to let them know/ask them to stay there. Katayama-san and his wife are very nice and chill people and I enjoyed my night staying with another hiker and a hitchhiker. See more details about the spot and its amenities on the accommodation map https://www.michinokutrail.com/accommodation
With blankets, warmth, water, and a porta-potty outside, this is a great spot for hikers. I only stayed one night because I didn’t want to spend too much time without taking a shower and because there’s no place to change clothing privately.

Day 2, October 22nd:
Walk Sanriku Station to Ryori Station
14 km, 3 hours 40 minutes
Train Ryori Station to Sanriku Station (310 yen). Last train at 21:14.
Stay at Okirai Love Love House at Sanriku Station.
Shopping: there’s a Lawson about 1 km/15 minutes walk north of here. 2 restaurants around too.
Shower: No.

Note: It rained so I didn’t do this hike. Instead, I went to Sakari Station, ate the huge scallop burger at Burger Hearts, and stayed at Ofunato Hot Springs (5500 yen/night without meals, I think can be cheaper depending on season). I regret nothing 😀

Day 3, October 23rd: (can you walk more on the 22nd? Get a locker? This is a long day)
Train to Ryori Station.
Ryori Station to Ryori Station
14.2 km, 4 hours 44 minutes
Ryori Station to Rikuzen-Akazaki Station
8.8 km, 2 hours 50 min (“1/2 day”)
=23 km, 7 hours 30 min
Train from Rikuzen-Akazaki Station to Sakari Station, 260 yen (trains only at 4:30 and 7:00 PM will probably have to walk over for 4 more km.）
Take train to & stay at Ofunato Guest House 3500 yen. OK-Have requested booking. Check-in: aiming for 5 pm.
Shop at conbini and supermarket nearby.
Shower: Yes. Laundry? Yes. Charge phone? Yes.

Note: I walked the Ryori Station to Rikuzen-Akazaki Station on a previous day because this original plan was a bit muchly. I also stayed at Ofunato Hot Springs the night before, so actually I either took the nearest BRT to Sakari Station or the bus to Sakari Station (Japanese PDF).
Sakari Station’s store was open at 7:00 AM so I snagged some extra cream/jam bread to eat on the hike. They also sell cup noodles so I had a snack after my hike waiting for the returning train.
Ofunato Guest House was very relaxed and affordable and I’d definitely stay there again. They have a reservation option outside of Airbnb, use that for a slightly cheaper price (and to avoid giving money to Airbnb)

Day 4, October 24th:
Train from Sakari to Rikuzen-Akazaki, 260 yen, trains at 6:42, 8:05, 10:00
Rikuzen-Akazaki Station to Hosoura Station
10 km, 2 hours 7 minutes
Hosoura Station to Goishi Coast Information Center & Campground by 5 pm or whenever.
7 km, about 2 hours
=17 km, 4 hours

Night 4, October 24th: Stay at Goishi Coast Campground (500 yen with the glorious discount)
Showers YESSS hot showers 8:00 AM to 9:00 PM)
Food: three nearby spots open until 4 or 5 PM. No shopping

Notes: “The glorious discount” was a discount for Michinoku Coastal Trail hikers during this month. Normally this campground is 1500 yen, but it’s totally worth it. Hot showers! Those aren’t coin showers, they’re all you can hot shower hot showers.
OK, the tragedy of this day was that the Goishi Coast Info Center shop, where I had planned to buy some soap and a couple beers and other various things, which is usually open until (if I remember correctly) 5, had chosen this day of all days to randomly close at like maybe 3:00 PM OR SOMETHING in order to count inventory and they ignored my sad sack act moping on the other side of their door. So instead I asked Goishi Coast Information Center staff to see if there really was no shopping, and there actually was something. Goishiya Liquor Store had some snacks, liquor, and a large container of shampoo I used instead of soap. Maybe a 15, 20 minute walk? When in doubt, ask the information center.

Day 5, October 25th, Friday:
Goishi Coast Information Center to Goishikaiganguchi Station: 4.5 km 2 hours.
Goishikaiganguchi Station to Otomo Station, 3 km 40 minutes.
Otomo Station to mid-peninsula 11 km, 3 hours 30 minutes
=18.5 km, 6 hours 10 min
Shop at スーパーマルミヤ open 8 AM – 7 pm near Otomo Station or Y-Shop 高田広田店 halfway down the peninsula, open 7 am to 7 pm.
Go to hot springs before it closes and camp somewhere you’re not supposed to OR take bus/taxi back to Otomo Station by 13:40 ish and try to get a room: i-Room Rikuzentakata near Wakinosawa Station, etc.

Notes: I didn’t end up camping somewhere I wasn’t supposed to. Out of curiosity I did keep an eye out for where I could camp where I wasn’t supposed to. Maybe the shrine near the hot springs? Even though it’s quite hilly. There’s on ryokan on the peninsula but they were full up that night. I ended up taking the 100 yen little bus van thing (Japanese PDF) back to Otomo Station and then staying at Ofunato Hot Springs again.

Day 6, October 26th: Half way along peninsula ~abouts to Otomo Station: 13 km, 4 hours 15 minutes
Otomo Station to Wakinosawa Station (and by that I mean Hakoneyama Terrace) 7-11 on the way—no dinner tonight!
6.2 km, 1 hour 30 minutes
=19 km, about 5 hours 45 minutes
Stay at Hakoneyama Terrace OK 9000 yen.
Wakinosawa St.

Note: I didn’t hike this today, since I’d hiked it before and wasn’t feeling like it. Instead I hiked Otomo Station to Ipponmatsu Station. You must get an octopus rice bowl + mini crepe set at Senkaen, it is so good. Also note that the new memorial museum and Michi no Eki (roadside station) complex at Ipponmatsu Station is so, so worthwhile. Please go to the memorial museum. The English speaking guides will adjust what to show you to your time constraints. The Michi no Eki next door has bread, other food, a cafe. Ask Hakoneyama Terrace to pick you up at the nearest BRT station if you stay there, hiking up that hill after a long hike would not be fun. They asked me for dietary constraints (!) so should be a rare good option for vegetarians etc. If your stay doesn’t include dinner make sure to bring food. There’s a bar open at night but the only food is a big bowl o’ nuts and I think a cheese plate.

Day 7, October 27th:
Wakinosawa Station to Osabe Station
9.0 km, 3 hours (“1/2 day”)
There’s a 7-11 just north of Osabi Station to shop
Osabe Station to 下二本杉/Karakuwa General Branch office bus stop (Lawson just north of here)
about 12 kilometers, 2 hours 40 minutes
=21 km, 5 hours 40 minutes
take bus to Karakuwa Peninsula Visitor Center (campground there)
https://www.kesennuma.miyagi.jp/sec/s023/010/010/010/010/050/01osaki20180416.pdf
Buses are 14:49, 16:09, 17:09, last at 18:09 NO IDEA how much it costs, thanks bus company.
Night 7 Osaki Campground, 430 yen.
Showers: YES. Free until 8 pm.

Notes: This was actually Ipponmatsu Station to the bus stop before Karakuwa General Branch office bus stop (I think 宿). Buy some bread etc. at the Michi no Eki at Ipponmatsu Station, and use the bathroom. There’s a 7-11 right in front of the bus stop. You don’t need to go to Karakuwa General Branch Office bus stop (it’s uphill). Osaki Campground’s staff is a very nice older fellow. If he’s not around either call the # on the door or ask the information center staff to call him. You can also just set up your tent and he can collect money from you when he notices you. You’ll need him to open the shower rooms, though.
Great campground, poor cell phone reception (at least for me). Weirdly, I got the best cell phone reception inside the parking lot phone booth.

Day 8, October 28th:
Bus back to gen. branch office (there’s a lawson just north of here)
Karakuwa General Branch office bus stop to Karakuwa Gen. Branch office bus stop
about 19.6 km, 6 hours 30 minutes
Take bus back to Karakuwa Peninsula Visitor Center and campground
Night 8, Osaki Campground, 430 yen.

Notes: I wanted to eat lunch at Cafe Gigi’s but it was extremely closed. Go to Isaribi Park ramen restaraunt (uphill but open!!) instead. While you’re there, order some kind of take-home bento for dinner. The grocery store near Karakuwa General Branch Office bus stop didn’t have much (any?) bento selection and I ended up eating weird croquette sandwiches for dinner with random stuff bought there.

Day 9, October 29th:
Bus back to general branch office (there’s a lawson just north of here)
Karakuwa Gen. Branch office to Shishiori-Karakuwa Station, 13.8 km, 3 hours 10 minutes.
Shishiori-Karakuwa Station to Saichi Station, 9.3 km, 2 hours
=23 km, 5 hours 10 minutes
Night 9: Can’t stay at Guest House Kakehashi, they’re full up. Aimi’s recommendation, Onabeya, 8000 yen + tax for two meal business plan—haven’t reserved yet. Very close to 神明崎. Wait to reserve until you know you can go?
https://www.onabeya-kesennuma.jp/

Notes: Staying at Onabeya was a really really good idea. Free massage chair in room, great service, great vibe, amazing food. If you don’t like phone calls you can make a reservation via web form. The new Pier 7 shopping area nearby great for dining, and there’s a place to rest and charge your phones. Bus stations for going back to Sendai nearby. Nearest is in front of Kesennuma City Hall.

Day 10, October 30th: Saichi Station to 大谷海岸 station (8.6 km, 2 hours) or make up for lost time. Look at disaster monument, michinoeki. Get on Oya station back to Kesennuma Station, last train at 3:00 pm.
Bus back leaving Kesennuma Station at 16:26, arriving at Sendai at 19:24. Make reservation at convenience store (2600 yen)

Notes: I ended up taking an earlier bus back to Sendai after a leisurely check out from Onabeya instead, was tired.

Plan: Kuji to Fudai

9/15 Night 0
Camp at Tamagawa Campground (150 yen) Attempt walk to Eboshi-so?
Notes: The “attempt walk to Eboshi-so” bit was me being hopeful that I’d be able to take baths at Eboshi-so while using Tamagawa Campground, but don’t try doing this on foot, it’s too dangerous: there is no sidewalk and too much traffic. It’s car or nothing. As far as I could tell, there was no way to get there by bus either. The only thing that’s a bit of a shame about Tamagawa Campground. The rest is perfect: the campground is close enough to a station to use for hiking multiple days (you might need to use Google maps the first time though to figure out where the campground is, it’s a bit twisty). There’s a shop selling a small selection of bentos, other food, alcohol, cup noodles (hot water available) next to the gas station here https://goo.gl/maps/LAtf96VLZ1bDjEGb8 that is open from 7 AM to 10 PM. PLUS the campground only costs 150 yen, and that’s if the campground manager is around to take your money.

9/16 Day 1 (Monday, holiday, might rain)
Get up at 7.
Train Noda-tamagawa to Kuji Station, 8:10-8:32 (540 yen)
Shopping (today’s lunch dinner) at Lawson west of station.
13.6 k, 4 hours 10 minute
Kosode Ama Center: Open 9-5. Diving demonstration at 11 am and 1 pm (500 yen) Eat lunch there?
Bus from Kosode Ama Center (Kosode-kaigan a little west of center) to Kuji St. at noon-12:31 or 2 pm-2:31. (380 yen)
Shopping: Universe northeast of station (9 AM-10 PM) or Lawson. At least tomorrow’s 3 meals.
Train Kuji Station to Noda-tamagawa 4:06-4:26, 5:30-5:50 (540 yen)
Camp at Tamagawa Campground (150 yen)

Notes: I’ve heard reports that the hike to Kosode Ama Center can be scary when there are more cars on the road. It wasn’t scary to me, but it’s possible I got lucky and was there on a day/season with less traffic. I still enjoyed the views but if you’re worried you can take the detour on the official map. Lunch at Kosode Ama Center!: There were basically only two options as far as I can remember. One is a mamebu-jiru set (Mamebu-jiru is a local speciality soup.) with the soup, some rice, and I think pickles, plus a variety of endless beverages. I enjoyed the endless beverages, and it was good, but I was hoping for something a little bit more substantial for 900 yen. I was REALLY hoping for a somewhat more expensive but tasty sea urchin rice bowl, but whether that can be served fluctuates by the hour: when I came in, it was listed as “sold out” but after I’d eaten my meal the sea urchin bowls were available again. If you watch the ama divers show, you can eat two freshly caught sea urchins for 1000 yen. I highly recommend doing this if you didn’t get your sea urchin fix.

9/17 Day 2 (Tuesday)
Train to Rikuchu-Noda 6:15-6:22 (260 yen), Kuji-kaisen line bus from Rikuchu-Noda to Kosode Kaigan 6:37-7:07 (430 yen)
OR if you fail, free Noda bus Tamagawa to Rikuchunoda St. 7:39-8:10 (Stop is along 45) and bus Rikuchunoda to Kosode Kaigan 8:30-9:00 (430 yen). If you take this you’ll end at 6 even without breaks….
10.4 k, 9 hours
Emergency: bail at Misaki (bus to Rikuchu-Noda St. at 12:51, 15:36, 18:10) or Kukihama to Rikuchu-noda at 13:03, 15:48, 18:22.
Shop at Rikuchu-noda: shops just south of station. Tomorrow’s 3 meals+extra breakfast.
Rikuchu-noda to Noda-Tamagawa: 17:44-17:50, 18:40-18:46, 19:45-19:52, 20:45-20:51 (260 yen)
Camp at Tamagawa Campground while dying quietly. (150 yen)

Note: I ultimately ended up hiking day 3’s hike today, and this hike the next day because it had rained recently and I was afraid the course was dangerous. It wasn’t as bad as I expected, but I highly highly recommend leaving as much time as possible for this hike so you can complete it at your own pace. I took the earlier 6:15 train, 6:37 bus and I think that was the better call.
I also didn’t want to take my heavy pack, but this is was a logistics issue because I couldn’t find a locker on the way that was open. Rikuchu-Noda does have lockers but the station doesn’t open until 7. I ended up leaving my pack at the campground in a top secret location (I can’t remember, probably the shuttered bathroom again). On the other hand maybe it’s better to have shelter on your back, plus there’s the danger of someone stealing your things if you leave it at the campground (which seems wildly unlikely but isn’t impossible).

9/18 Day 3
Train to Rikuchu-Noda 8:10-8:16 or 9:08-9:14.
Rikuchunoda-Horinai St. 15.7 km 5 hours 15 minutes.
Take extremely long bath and break at Eboshi-so.
Horinai St. to Noda-Tamagawa (260 yen) last train 9:40 PM
Camp at Tamagawa Campground while dying quietly. (150 yen)

Notes: I made it to Eboshi-so during lunch hours 11:30 to 2:00 PM (last order 1:30) with this hike, which is perfect timing. I don’t remember which train I took, but even if I took the earlier 8:10 one I still ended up taking more time to get going because of a side trip to go buy sunscreen. I did not die quietly.

9/19 Day 4: go home!
Train Noda-Tamagawa to Kuji 8:10-8:32 (540 yen)
Buy food here.
Bus Kuji-Morioka 9:25 to 11:30 (2300 yen)
Bus Morioka to Sendai 11:40-2:07 (if you don’t make it there’s a 12:40-15:07 with JR)(3100 yen)

Notes: There are two buses from Kuji to Morioka so if you look at the schedule and it doesn’t fit what Google Maps told you DON’T PANIC and check the bus stop one spot over.
There’s a really nice bread shop nearby https://goo.gl/maps/whSP1h7ChQ6rcPct5 so if you have time go get some bread and coffee for breakfast.

Plan: Hachinohe to Kuji

9/2 Day 0
Transport to Hachinohe via local trains.
Stay in Hachinohe, Hotel Tetra (6000 yen). Dinner at restaurant.
Buy: tomorrow breakfast, lunch, emergency dinner.

Notes: There were convenience stores nearby. Hotel Tetra was a nice, reasonable budget hotel maybe about 5 minutes away from Hachinohe Station. There was a private bath which was available for free if you made a reservation at the front. I can’t remember if price included dinner or not. There was a very much appreciated coffee maker in the lobby.

9/3 Day 1
Train Hachinohe to Same (240). 7:13-7:37, 7:27-7:52 or 7:54-8:18 (earlier is best)
Walk from Same Station to Oja Station, 19 km, 6.5 hours.Train back to Tanesashi. Need to make 4:06 to 4:15 pm train if you want food and to check in to campground. (next is 6:14 PM).
Stay at Tanesashi Campground, 1500 yen. No showers but 30 minute walk to 白浜海水浴場. Dinner at local shokudo (may close at 6)
Tanesashi Kaigan Info Center 9-5. Umi Cafe Tanesashi open 9-5

Notes: Bathing at Shirahama Swimming Beach was wishful thinking, it was way too far away. Resign yourself to no baths tonight.
Be careful, Tanesashi doesn’t have a lot of shopping and dining options past 5 or 6. There’s one store selling not that much food that closes early. For reasons my schedule got messed up on this day and I had to take a taxi to barely squeak in to eat a meal at a restaurant (English menus for various spots here http://npo-acty.jp/promotion_j.html). You pay for campground at local tourism association inside shop, next to police box. Don’t worry if you can’t pay the day of, just go the next day.

9/4 Day 2
Train to Oja Station 7:50-8:00 (210). Charge phone at Nohara inland from Oja/Hashikami 8:15 to 17:30. Lawson nearby. Buy and eat bfast, lunch, emergency dinner.
Walk Oja Station to Kominato Coast to Taneichi Seaside Park. About 10 k, 3.4 hours. Side trips as desired or make up for lost distance from day 1.
Stay at Taneichi Seaside Park 1000 yen for tent. Showers, lockers. Near Taneichi St.
Food at supermarkets, shops near station (Universe, 9 am to 9 pm). Buy bfast/lunch for tomorrow.Two coin laundries near Taneichi Station open til 8 pm.

Notes: Nohara is listed as a “trail angel” facility that will let you charge your phone. I didn’t end up going there. I didn’t find a staff member at Taneichi Seaside Park, which means I couldn’t use the showers or the lockers. Was able to pay for my time there only because there was a groundskeeper who took the money from me. I did hide my pack inside the toilet and closed the shutter one day instead of locker. If the toilet shutter is down, just pull it up to use.
Marinside Spa Taneichi is nearby, for bathing and dining until pretty late at night!
Coin laundry next to the supermarket (Universe) was easiest to use from proximity. It was a lot more expensive to use than I expected.

9/5 Day 3
Taneichi Seaside Park to Rikuchu-nakano Station (or see how far can get).
Leave by 8, 7 if you can.
22.1 k, 8-9 hours. Train back to Taneichi Station. 15:28-15:48 or 17:34-17:57 (240) Stay in the same spot as night 2, Taneichi Seaside Park. Buy bfast, lunch and emergency dinner for tomorrow.

9/6 Day 4
Train to Rikuchu-nakano Station 8:13-8:34 (240) Rikuchu-nakano Station to Samurai no Yu and Kitasamurahahama. Unknown. 7 km??? Let’s say a long time.
Stay at Kitasamuraihama Campground, 200 yen. Samurai no Yu for baths nearby (9 am to 9 pm, 500 yen). No food except Samurai no Yu (11-2 and 5-9 LO 8:45)

Notes: The official GPX files for the route, including detour, came out after I did this hike. It still does take a long time, so don’t skimp on time when plenning. Don’t try to cross the river, I think it’s a waste of time. Samurai no Yu’s restaurant is no longer open for customers not staying there. Still very close to campground for taking a bath, though. The hotel sells some snacks like potato chips, alcohol vending machine, you may be able to use their coin laundry. The campsite sells cup noodles on season, and the staff is there consistently (very very nice people). There’s a convenience store on the detour (one of the detours?) here https://goo.gl/maps/A5ep4sUP9U3ez5pp9 and a grocery store here https://goo.gl/maps/6wX8hmyj4Vw3R1Rh7.

9/7 Day 5
Leave whenever you want. 10ish. Samurai no Yu to Rikuchunatsui St or Kuji Station. 20 ish k, 6 hours.
Stay at Kuji Grand Hotel, 6600 yen no meals. Check in at 6:00

Notes: Kuji Grand Hotel had great service and a restaurant on-site if you don’t feel like venturing out into Kuji, though Kuji has a lot of tasty places to eat around the station. I was a little disappointed there was no public bath.

9/8 Day 6
Go back home!
Leave via bus 9:25 AM to 11:30 (2300 yen)